Hidden behind an unmarked door in Little Italy, Toronto’s new speakeasy-style bar is a surprisingly stylish new retreat.
It hasn’t even been a month since J’s Steak Frites — the city’s go-to spot for, you guessed it, steak frites — closed the doors of its original Queen West location permanently (don’t worry, the College location is alive and well). Still, the team has already moved on to something completely new.
Tucked away unassumingly in the same building as J’s Steak Frites’ Little Italy location, owners Jad Sfeir and Tara Tang have just launched Bitters & Bloom, a 1920s-inspired speakeasy serving up stylish cocktails and bar bites — a far cry from the one-item menu at J’s.
The sultry spot takes inspiration — as many speakeasy-style bars tend to do — from the jazz era, with dim lighting and rich, cozy interiors, but it’s not gimmicky. Instead, the space serves as a perfect backdrop for the sophisticated global flavours coming across the bar.
While the philosophy at J’s Steak Frites has always revolved around the food, Bitters & Bloom is all about the drinks.
“At Bitters & Bloom, every cocktail is a passport stamp,” says Jad. “We wanted to create something that feels like an escape — a place where you can discover new flavours, share small bites and connect over the universal language of a good drink and good company.”
To achieve this, Jad and Tara have partnered up with bar manager and liquid specialist Jason McNeely, who is coming off a tenure as the bar manager at the Broadview Hotel, on top of years working at some of Toronto’s top restaurants, to create a distinct menu of cocktails you’d be unlikely to find anywhere else.
Better yet, they all come with fun names, like the Kermit’s Revenge, a charmingly green, refreshing drink of light rum, Del Santo, honeydew and lime, or the Monkey’s Paw, which is a tropical take on the classic Old Fashioned, dressed up with pineapple rum, Amaro and banana peel syrup.
For a more savoury option, the Stampede Club is described as an “ode to summer and Canadian flavour,” with tequila, vodka, tomato shrub, sparkling water and a ketchup chip rim.
That doesn’t mean there’s nothing to snack on at Bitters & Bloom, though; Chef Tara Tang has built a curated menu of sophisticated yet playful bar bites to complement Jason’s eccentric cocktail menu.
Spanning the globe in terms of inspiration, the food menu includes dishes like a Roast Beef Pretzel served with gruyere, arugula, and truffles; a Smoked Salmon Éclair with cream cheese, cucumber and chives; and a Madeleine with crème fraiche and caviar.
It’s a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it sort of place, easily overshadowed by its neighbour in J’s Steak Frites, especially given the fact that Bitters & Bloom is hidden behind an unmarked door. But, if this team has proven anything over the years, it’s that they know how to make a hit.
Bitters & Bloom can be found at 577 College St.
