Chef Akira Back is best known for his appearance on Food Network’s Iron Chef, empire of 25 restaurants across the globe (one of which received a Michelin Star in 2018) and resume of cooking for none other than the Dalai Lama, British royal family and Bill Clinton.
A lesser-known fact about the Seoul-born chef is he’s just as down-to-earth today as his days as a professional snowboarder in Colorado.
I went to Back’s eponymous restaurant in the Entertainment District to get to know the world-renowned chef and indulge in some of the upscale dining destination’s prestigious menu of Korean-Japanese fusion, including three of Back’s newest culinary creations.
Beside the ritzy hotel bar Mister C, there is an ornamental yet slightly unassuming entrance to the restaurant. You must climb a sculptural, gilded staircase to reach the restaurant on the second floor of the Bisha Hotel. Inside, a luxury dining experience awaits.
Back opened the Toronto location of Akira Back seven years ago in 2017. “Luckily our name is still hip and getting buzz as a destination restaurant,” he says.
“Everybody told me if after four years your restaurant is still busy that is a big accomplishment and you should be proud.”
Many have claimed the restaurant’s high-end menu makes it well qualified for an addition to Toronto’s Michelin guide.
When asked why he thought the restaurant had yet to receive a Michelin star, Back responded with good humour. “Everybody is different on how they grade. Michelin usually likes a bit of a smaller size. I think it’s lucky our restaurant is pretty big and very busy.”
He adds, “I don’t think that much [about it]. If we get it, it will be a blessing for sure. It’s a really good feeling when you get recognized, but any recognition is good.”
Back’s real passion is bringing his unique culinary vision to various parts of the world, “I love opening up restaurants across the world because I meet so many customers from different countries.”
Some of these locales include Las Vegas, Dubai, Paris, Seoul, Bangkok and Beverly Hills.
As a serial restaurateur, Back might be expected to take a more hands-off approach to his portfolio, but he tries to visit each restaurant he owns as often as possible. Customers “don’t know I’m here, but it’s the best feeling,” he says.
Back only has praise for the city. “Toronto is one of my favourite places to visit,” he says. “The people here are so nice. Whenever I go out, I meet at least five or six of the nicest people.”
After chatting with Back, it was time to sit down and see if the food was worth the hype—starting with the newest items on the menu.
Back says he “wanted to do something a little more traditional” for the new menu items.
One of the new additions to the menu is the Tuna Tataki ($26). Slabs of seared tuna are topped with diced green onion and slices of fried garlic and sit in a bath of Japanese tosazu dressing.
The seared tuna is incredibly fresh and flavourful with the added accoutrements. According to Back, the secret is the tosazu made from white soy sauce, “which brings a lot of flavour in a unique and traditional way.”
Another new addition to the menu is the A5 Wagyu Tataki ($58). The tataki (a Japanese method of preparing thinly sliced meat) uses the highest quality premium wagyu beef.
The pairing of the Japanese mustard miso sauce with the sweet Parmesan “snow” on top creates a unique and delicious collision of flavours. 
The last of the new items on the menu I tried is the Galbi Lamb Chop ($46). The grilled Korean-style lamb is served with charred asparagus, tomatoes and fresh chimichurri sauce on the side.
The meat is tender and juicy. The explosion of flavours from the traditional Korean barbecue sauce and the vinegary chimmichurri made using the Japanese herb, shiso make this a standout dish.
If you’re thinking of going to Akira Back, don’t overlook some of the offerings that have been on the menu all along.
Must-tries are the melt-in-your-mouth Grilled Alaskan King Crab ($68), signature sushi rolls ($19-38) and tart yet sweet Yuzu Citrus Curd ($16) dessert.
Although the plating and presentation doesn’t shy away from pomp and circumstance—with smoke filled boxes and terrariums meant to smell and sound like the ocean—the flair is met by genuinely good food.
Back credits the restaurant’s success to this fact, “Once they try [the food], they always come back.”
Along with the restaurant’s many regulars, to this day “there are still so many new customers,” Back claims. After seven years he appreciates both his new and repeat customers, “either way it’s pretty unbelievable.”
Back hopes those who have not already made their way down will come and try the new menu this fall.
Akira Back Toronto is located at 80 Blue Jays Way inside the Bisha Hotel.
